Author: mkscott

Kathleen has a background in teaching and holds degrees in political science, studio art, and secondary education. With the birth of their second child, she left education and began teaching herself photography, graphic and website design and as a result began her own visual branding business. With the beginnings of Travis' business she found her visual design skills combined nicely with her love of gardening and plants to provide him with the landscape design portion of his business.

A Look At The Landscape: September

You may think September should bring a cool down but here in North Carolina it can still feel like the middle of summer. Even though it may not feel like it yet, the weather is changing for the better including lower humidity (which many plants become stressed over) and lower night time temperatures (which grasses and roots love because they can recover after a hot day). So you still may not feel like it’s time to look at doing anything outside, but it’s the perfect moment to start. And if anything, don’t wait until the middle of October when frost and freezes become a possibility.

Looking at Your Landscape

Right now you probably see some of your grass coming back after the serious stress it went under this summer. It might have been dry, skinny, not growing and possibly brown, but now it’s probably growing, is less brown, and the blades are thicker. It will keep recovering. Be patient but look below for other things you can do for the promise of a great start to a lawn next year and a healthy lawn through the winter.

Your plants are probably in the same situation. The best thing you can do is clean them up – no pruning but definitely remove fallen leaves from around the plants, remove dead or diseased limbs and leaves. Spray with any insecticidal soap if needed.

Right now the Crepe Myrtles, Rose of Sharons, Knock Out Roses, Sedum and other perennial plants are in bloom right now. And the south’s favorite border plant, Liriope (otherwise lovingly known as Monkey Grass) is blooming too.

 

Plants and Trees

Right now we’re seeing many of the summer blooming shrubs begin their decline as their flower heads deaden.

Hydrangeas are most likely looking this way and you may be seeing signs of fungus on their leaves – causing them to turn brown. Too much water and watering top down or rainfall can cause this. Remove leaves that are mostly brown and make sure you throw them away along with any other leaves that fell on the ground. Take care of the rest of the leaves by squirting them with a fungicide. Definitely do not prune a hydrangea right now – wait until late winter or early spring as the buds start to form.

If your plants have holes in the leaves, you have little bugs eating away and enjoying the feast on your plant. Use good old Sevin Dust or if you’d rather go organic, Spinosad, Neem oil, or for some a little spritz of water with dish detergent will do the trick.

Deadhead and pinch back flowers that need it unless you want them to self-sow now.  This encourages new and bushier growth. Examples of plants that love it: Knockout Roses, Butterfly Bushes (Buddleia), Mums, Marigolds, and Coneflower. But! If you want them to self sow do not deadhead or pinch them back. Let them go to drop their seed.

Keep weeding and watering! If you are getting less than an inch a week, then make sure plants that are not drought tolerant are getting water. Try watering them deeply in the early morning every 3 days instead of every day as well. Look out for wilting leaves on drought tolerant plants – this is a clue they need some water. Be careful of plants susceptible to root rot and not overwater them. Weeds will steal the precious water from your plants, so get rid of those when you can by spraying or pulling – or both.

Do not fertilize any plants or trees from here on out.

Also, right now is a great time to transplant and add shrubs or plants to your landscape where you might need to introduce some fall bloomers. September is the best time to snatch up the best looking plants!

Bulbs

Now is the time to start considering your bulbs. You can move irises, peonies, and daylilies while they are still showing. Just make sure you plant the rhizomes of the irises and the eyes of the peonies no deeper than an inch or so. New bulbs can start to be bought and stuck in the ground for the spring towards the end of the month and into the first part of October.

We also offer a division and moving of plants service for you as well as adding in new plants and bulbs! Click Here to contact us.

Pruning

Absolutely do not cut back your azaleas, forsythia, and other spring flowering shrubs. Also do not prune at this point any other shrubs, new growth could result and with a hard freeze or frost in October that new growth would cause damage to the plant.

By all means though, go ahead and prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased limbs or shoots even on those shrubs. Make sure you throw them away and don’t leave them lying beneath the shrub to invite disease to the plant. I carry around one of those big blue Ikea bags for weeds and pruning. It is so convenient!

Some of you have had some good storms and it causes damage in your trees and shrubs. Cut off those damaged limbs and pull them out of the shrubs too if any fell into them. Clean up is very important to a healthy lawn and shrubs.

Suckers may be growing on the bottom part of your Holly trees, Crepe Myrtles and other similar trees that naturally want to be more shrub-like. Go ahead and take those off.

If your Hostas (aka Plaintain Lilies) have holes in their leaves with burnt edges, they’re in the sun too much or in the heat of the afternoon sun. Towards the middle of this month you can replant them to a shadier spot. And if you have to have Hostas in that spot find a Hosta that can take the sun better like Guacamole, Sun and Substance, and Squash Casserole. Also Hostas should be divided if very big to keep them healthy. Plus this just gives you more plants for your yard!

Other plants also need division to maintain health and you can create new plants from those. This is a great time of year to do it. Some of those include ornamental grasses, Peonies, Irises, Hydrangeas etc.

Keep planting annuals, especially the cooler season annuals like Pansies, and you can actually start planting shrubs now!

Fall is the best time to plant shrubs because it gives them a chance to establish their roots so they have a jump on growing outwards in the spring and producing their best show, rather than waiting in the spring for their roots to establish then put on a show.

Lawn

Right now is the perfect time to lay sod.

Now is the time to start working on your lawn for next season. Labor Day marks the traditional end to summer and with that, the time to start thinking about over-seeding, pre-emergent, and fertilizers for cool season turf. Additional information about over-seeding can be found here.

Warm season turf (Bermuda or Zoysia), is on the backside of the growing season. These turf types will benefit most from minimal Nitrogen (N) fertilization and moderate Potassium (K) fertilization. Pre-emergent applications are also recommended for warm season turf at this time.

As we move into fall, keep in mind that you are laying the foundation for next season’s success with everything you do in your yard. A little expense now will pay big dividends in the spring and summer.

Check out our other posts for more info on irrigation or other turf care topics.

 

Importance Of Pre-Emergent Weed Control

 

A weed is generally defined as any undesirable species present in an otherwise homogenous stand of turf. Weeds can be intimidating and stressful on both professional turf managers and homeowners, but they don’t have to be. With the right information and timing, weeds can be controlled and virtually eliminated from a turf stand (if a plan is developed and followed). Pre-emergent herbicides are the key in the battle against weeds.

As a golf course superintendent, every  September, I would start the pre-emergent application process, so that turf at the course would be lush and weed free not only for the remaining season but also for the coming one.

Many might think that this is an expensive process or can not be done to residential lawns. It most certainly can, and should be done to home lawns. The cost is outweighed by the season-long benefits that it provides. You know the saying ‘an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.’ That is precisely the case with pre-emergent applications. Weed free lawns provide homeowners with better curb appeal, a more enjoyable lawn, and a denser,healthier lawn.

It is considerably more difficult and costly to control weeds once they have emerged from the soil.

We all know how unsightly rampant weeds can be in a lawn. There is a another negative effect weeds have on your lawn aside from aesthetics. Weeds compete with desirable turf for sunlight, water, air and essential nutrients. The effect of all the competition is a significant reduction in the overall health, density, vigor and aesthetics of the rest of your lawn as the more aggressive weeds out grown the existing grass.

Weed infestations can become uncontrollable quickly if there is not preventative action taken. In order to combat weeds, a well thought plan needs to be developed (likely with the help of a professional) and followed.

Strategic timing for the pre-emergent application is crucial to its overall effectiveness as is choosing the proper active ingredient (AI) in the pre-emergent. Waiting too late to make the application is not going to do you or your lawn any favors and can severely inhibit the efficacy of the treatment resulting in weed breakthrough and weaker protection.

Pre-emergent chemicals will only work when applied before weed seeds germinate, and location, grass type, and soil temperatures are the determining factors as to when that is, so if there is any doubt, contact a professional for a consultation. When applied properly, the active ingredient in the pre-emergent forms a barrier to prevent newly germinated weed seeds from breaking the soil surface and infesting your lawn.

Uniform coverage during application is critical for the effective barrier to cover the entire area you want to protect. In order to make an even, uniform application of the pre-emergent, it is critical to follow the following steps:

  1. make sure that your spreader is calibrated properly to the rate you want to distribute on the lawn
  2. apply half of the recommended application rate moving across the lawn in a north/south pattern
  3. make a second application at half of the recommended rate moving across the lawn in an east/west pattern
  4. irrigate the application into the soil

Key points about pre-emergent applications:

  1.  Pre-ermergent inhibits the development of newly germinated weed seeds.
  2. The product does not prohibit germination, but rather prevents the development of weeds above the soil surface.
  3. It is best to apply uniformly, at the right time, over the entire area that is to be protected.
  4. Most applications need to be watered in by at least a half inch of water after the application to be effective.

If this seems like a lot to take in, don’t worry about it. The professionals at Crossroads Turf can take care of it to ensure you have the weed free lawn you deserve.

6 Benefits of Professional Lawn Maintenance

Like most homeowners, you find you have little time for lawn care. Regular lawn care and maintenance takes time and effort, requiring a year-round commitment to keep a well-maintained lawn.

Hiring a landscape company that handles professional lawn maintenance in your areas is the perfect solution for a beautiful lawn. Do-it-yourself lawn care and regular maintenance is an overwhelming task for most homeowners.

Whether the lawn is large or small, keeping the grass, plants, trees and shrubs healthy an dgreen takes knowledge and experience in plant care and maintenance practices.

Professional lawn care offers numerous benefits that are difficult to match:

  1. Regular Services
    • With the hectic schedules that many homeowners have day in and day out, finding the time to take care of even basic lawn maintenance taskss is a challenge. Hiring a professional to take care of this for you frees up your time and gives you peace of mind in knowing that your lawns needs are met consistantly.
  2. A Healthier Lawn
    • Keeping your lawn healthy year-round is more than just regular mowing and trimming an drequires attention to details that may signal impending problems. A healthy, functional lawn requires knowledge and skill about mowing techniques, soil types, plant growth pattersn, climate and light conditions, feeding and pruing schedules, and proper lawn care product selection for your existing lawn and landscape conditions.
  3. Curb Appeal
    • Your lawn and landscape have a significant impact on your home’s appearance and curb appeal. A well-maintained lawn adds beauty and character to your home, creates an inviting entrance, increases property values, and gives the homeowner a sense of pride in their property.
  4. Professional Knowledge
    • Lawn care professionals have a diverse knowlege of the product and procedures that are essential to keep your lawn healthy and beautiful. Professional lawn managers understand the advantages and disavantages of different lawn care products and procedures. Professionals bring years of education and experience bear for the homeowner, with most now carrying  college degrees in turf maintenance, horticulture, or agronomy. This education and experience is key to the proper timing, selection, and application of fertilizers, perticides, herbicides, new plantings, and seeding.
  5. Skilled and Experienced Crews
    • Crews show up with the proper tools and equipment to get hte job done right. Hiring a professional to maintain your lawn can save you thousands in tool and equipment costs, while increasing the amount of free time that is available to you. If you consider the experience level of the team and the cost of the tools and equipment, often a professional lawn care service delivers a better product for less expense.
  6. Weed Control
    • Without proper weed control by a professional, aggressive weeds can infest your lawn. Proper selection and application of pre-emergent products is the first step in a weed free lawn. A healthy, properly maintained lawn can also aid in the elimination of unsightly weeds. Once weeds have established, it is much more expensive to remove them than it would have been to prevent them.

Traditional Southern Shrub Installation

This was a fun little project for a maintenance client of ours. They had non-flowering shrubs that were struggling and wanted to replace them not only because they were unsightly but because they wanted to add a little color to the yard. I decided to keep all the shrubs evergreen, except one and to go with a more traditional southern shrub aesthetic.

Here’s the before:

To start with the more traditional look, I decided to go with Encore Azaleas that don’t grow more than about 3 feet tall in front, giving the client flowers from Spring until Fall and since they are evergreen, they won’t have drab looking shrubs in the winter. The azaleas are also pretty hardy, drought tolerant and handle more sun than a traditional Azalea. They had a smaller budget to work with and these are perfect all around.

Lining the steps up, and in front of the existing Pencil Boxwoods, I added two Encore Azaleas that grow to about 4.5 feet tall to give the sidewalk leading up a little more drama. I also decided on white to off-set the pink colors of the smaller azaleas.

Behind the Azaleas I decided on a Gardenia that grows to about 5′ tall to give the client height and to border the porch with a little privacy. The flowers are also fragrant, making a moment on the porch that much sweeter. As well, the Gardenias are also evergreen, but their leaf color is a darker green than that of the Azaleas making them a really nice backdrop.

On the left side of the house, I decided on a smaller camellia that grows to about 8 ft tall and 6 ft wide with pink blooms in the winter. The dark glossy leaves of the Camellia will also create a pretty backdrop.

Finally, on the other end of the front of the house, I added a Hydrangea that won’t be noticed in the winter, but will be dramatic through the summer.

Here is the after:

 

A Look at the Landscape: August

This is the start of what I hope will be informational and/or helpful to you as you look out at your landscape. It is all things we consider as landscapers and homeowners in the month of August. These are things I’ve always tried to do, even before I was in the business and it’s something every homeowner can do to help their landscape through the tough part of the summer. Some of these we may take care of for you, depending on the level of your maintenance, or we may not but they are still worth taking a look at.

Y’all its August – the month my girls start back to school (in just 2 weeks!) and we are almost through this sweltering, drought-ridden, long as a pole bean summer. Luckily a week ago we had a break in the drought and in the heat and this coming week looks to be the same.

Looking at Your Landscape

Right now if you are looking out at your landscape, you probably want to go run back inside and not emerge again until the heat is over and you can start the repairs to your yard. Yes, I think everyone, including those Bermuda grass yards are feeling the effects of the summer. So, in case you didn’t take a deep look, here’s what it probably looks like and further down, what you can do this month to help things along.

Plants and Trees

Your flowering shrubs and trees most likely have yellowing leaves and they’re dropping making your heart drop with them wondering if they are going to make it. Most of them will – they are only dropping their older leaves because of the drought conditions. They will bounce back, especially if they are a drought tolerant plant like Azaleas. Some more finicky plants like Gardenias will also be showing signs of stress but they will need a little extra care – get them some water and make sure you fertilize them with the correct food.

yellowing leaves on an Azalea plant
The yellowing leaves on one of my Azaleas.

If your plants have holes in the leaves, you have little bugs eating away and enjoying the feast on your plant. Use good old Sevin Dust or if you’d rather go organic, Spinosad, Neem oil, or for some a little spritz of water with dish detergent.

Deadhead and pinch back flowers that need it. This encourages new and bushier growth. Examples of plants that love it: Knockout Roses, Butterfly Bushes (Buddleia), Mums, Marigolds, and Coneflower.

Keep weeding and watering! If you are getting less than an inch a week, then make sure plants that are not drought tolerant are getting water. Try watering them deeply in the early morning every 2 -3 days instead of every day as well. Look out for wilting leaves on drought tolerant plants – this is a clue they need some water. Be careful of plants susceptible to root rot and not overwater them. Weeds will steal the precious water from your plants, so get rid of those when you can by spraying or pulling – or both.

Fertilize your landscape shrubs with the appropriate fertilizer. This will be their last feeding until the Spring – otherwise you risk new growth later that won’t survive a good frost. And if you haven’t hit your roses yet with some food, then please do! Also container plants may be looking for a liquid feed at this time so don’t forget them – they’ll last longer through the season for you.

Pruning

Absolutely do not cut back your azaleas, forsythia, and other spring flowering shrubs.

By all means though, go ahead and prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased limbs or shoots even on those spring flowering shrubs. Make sure you throw them away and don’t leave them lying beneath the shrub to invite disease to the plant. I carry around one of those big blue Ikea bags for weeds and pruning. It is so convenient!

Some of you have had some good storms and it causes damage in your trees and shrubs. Cut off those damaged limbs and pull them out of the shrubs too if any fell into them. Clean up is very important to a healthy lawn and shrubs.

Suckers growing at the bottom of a holly tree.

Suckers may be growing on the bottom part of your Holly trees, Crepe Myrtles and other similar trees that naturally want to be more shrub-like. Go ahead and take those off.

Boxwoods and other hedges like Yew and Privet will still benefit from a good pruning as well but this month is the month to do it otherwise afterward you’ll risk new growth during a frost period.

You can cut off the yellowed leaves of irises right now but leave the still green shoots. Or if you’d rather just leave it all until fall.

If your Hostas have holes in their leaves with burnt edges, they’re in the sun too much or in the heat of the afternoon sun. In the fall you can replant them to a shadier spot. And if you have to have Hostas in that spot find a Hosta that can take the sun better like Guacamole, Sun and Substance, and Squash Casserole.

If you are into propagation and sharing with your friends and neighbors, go ahead and take semi-hardwood cuttings from shrubs like Rose of Sharon or Forsythia. Stick them in a pot and get their roots going so they’re strong for the winter (like anyone can think about the winter with this heat).

Keep planting annuals and avoid putting perennial shrubs in the ground. Some perennial plants like Coneflower or Dragon’s Breath can still take it but it’s best to leave them to plant when it’s not so hot.

Lawn

Your grass, especially if its Fescue probably has a spectrum of looks to it. But mostly it looks sickly, dead or overgrown with weeds. If you are one of our customers in the first year, bear with us – fall is the best time to rebound and next year it won’t be like this.

Much of what can be done for Fescue is done in the fall as spring is a late jump for Fescue. If you want more info we wrote two great articles on Fescue and our Southern Summers and How to irrigate for Fescue.

Patience is critical this time of year for Fescue, resist the urge to fertilize or undertake any seeding/sodding. The best time to begin those practices is just after Labor Day.

Warm season turf (Bermuda or Zoysia), the drought may be taking a toll on your turf, but don’t fret, it will bounce back quickly once adequate water is applied (either naturally or via irrigation). If you have irrigation, use it 2x’s per week for 30 min each early in the morning (4-7 am).

Moving forward, begin thinking about Fall pre-emergent applications. This is the most important thing that you can do to ensure that your next season is a great one.

Check out our other posts for more info on irrigation or other turf care topics.

Our Business

We are expanding and added on another employee this month. Wesley is joining us as a fully experienced and well-qualified maintenance foreman. He has easily worked in and showed he is skilled and knowledgeable. We are still adding on maintenance accounts so he is a welcome addition to our team!

Want to Plant Something In This Heat? Here’s What To Do.

It’s almost the middle of what is quickly becoming a sweltering, never-ending summer. As you look at your landscape everyday, you feel something is missing and you have an idea of what it is. Color.
 
After the rush of color during the spring, June can often seem very green. It’s beautiful, but its also like a pause for a couple of weeks while we wait for the summer bloomers to take over.
 
That is if you have your landscape figured out. But maybe you never got around to planting any summer blooms and you have no color to look forward to. Or perhaps your landscape sits in the shade and it seems like everything that blooms needs full sun.
 
Believe me, I’m feeling it all right now. I’m always moving plants, propagating, dividing and adding and right now that’s all I want to do.
 
When we took over our 100 year old house all we had in the front was green. Nothing that flowered. Four years later, I am on the edge of my seat as my summer bloomers make themselves known. It happens so slowly because shade dominates my yard, except in the late afternoon heat (not exactly friendly to most shade plants).

Even I want to fill my landscape with color right now. But it’s not the time to shop for perennials and put them in the ground as you see holes in your landscape. The heat (and lately lack of rain) would make an otherwise stressful situation even more stressful, and not just on the plants. It’s almost too hot to even be outside. So how do we get color this time of year, especially as it becomes less ideal to put perennial plants in the ground?
 

Plant Annuals

 
Yes, the most obvious but it’s also the cheapest option. You can tell it’s that time because garden centers are full of them. You might notice landscapers planting masses of annuals at neighborhood and shopping center entrances. Even though many of these heat loving plants can withstand a drop in the ground right now, it’s still super important you water them and water them deeply in the morning. Also plan on planting them when the sun is not touching the planting area – this will give them a moment to settle. And water immediately after planting.
 
Some of my favorite annuals for color that you can pick up at any garden center are:
 
Shaded Yards – Begonias, New Guinea Impatiens, Fuschia, Lobelia, Coleus, and Caladium.
 
Sunny Yards – Dahlias, Daisies, Petunias, Zinnias, Geraniums, Calibrachoa, Marigolds, Impatiens, Mandevillas and Bougainvilleas.
 

Try Containers

 
Plant perennials in containers of varying heights for color. Choose colorful containers to add a bigger boost of color too! Place the containers throughout your landscape to fill the voids where you want color.
 
You can also add perennials to containers and when fall ushers in some relief from this heat, transplant those to a more permanent place in your landscape. Be sure though to keep containers well watered no matter what you put in them as they do dry out faster.
 

Drainage, Paver, and Plant Installation Project

We had a fun project to start off the spring in Statesville. It included installing a paver sidewalk, installing a drain system from the gutters of the house to the street run off, and replacing old azaleas, rhododendron, holly, and camellias with new camellias, encore azaleas, hydrangea, a rose of sharon, hostas, and an assortment of flowering perennials. We also installed a border of Peonies along the driveway and another border of creeping phlox along another part of the driveway.

Here’s a look at the before:

before paver installation only grass where sidewalk will go in front of house

During the Project:

This chicken followed me around all week knowing I was digging up all the worms for him to eat (smile).

 

Some After Photos:

I’m hoping to get a peek at everything next year when they are much more mature and filled out the space. We’ll share here!