Category: Landscaping

Spring Clean-Up: A Strong Start to the Season

Finally, there are signs of Spring.

January is over and we are starting to notice little changes in the environment that are early indicators of Spring. For those of us in the Landscape and Lawn Maintenance industry, it is a welcome arrival. I am sure that many of you are ready for warmer weather, longer days, and sunnier skies too.

The arrival of warmer weather and longer days signals the start of the spring planting season. Before you can make plans for new plantings or other changes to your landscape, you need to take the time to thoroughly clean up your landscape or lawn. We call this a Spring Cleanup. We have all heard the terms Spring Cleaning before, though maybe you never associated it with your outdoor spaces.

Spring cleanups are, in my opinion, the most important cultural practice that we do all year for our landscapes and lawns. It helps us to establish a healthy, clean growing environment, where our plants and turf can thrive in the coming season. Spring cleanups do not have to be arduous tasks that take a long time to complete, however there are a few specific things that you will want to check off the list.

Perennials and Ornamentals

Spring is a good time to cut back certain species to encourage a bigger and better regeneration later in the season. Ornamental grasses can be cut back to about 1/5th of their max height.

It is also a good time to divide up fall blooming perennials and grasses. By doing this in the spring, you are giving the divided plants a season grow and will have new plants in the fall.

Beds

Beds are probably the most intimidating aspect of the Spring Cleanup. Over the winter they get cluttered with fallen leaves, twigs, sticks, and other debris. This all needs to be removed. By removing the debris, the surface of the bed becomes open to better water absorption and gas exchange, improving the growing medium for the bedded plants.

Folks tend to want to spread fresh mulch in the spring, to help dress everything up, after all, fresh mulch is one way to spruce things up quickly and affordably, but I would hold off. One of the primary functions of mulch is moisture retention, which can aid in the reduction of irrigation water to beds. In the spring though, there is plenty of natural moisture, we don’t necessarily need to retain any at this point. And we all know, or at least we should, that too much moisture for plant roots can create a host of disease issues. So, hold off on the new mulch for now.
If you just cannot wait on the mulch, then tread lightly. Go thinner on the application and monitor the moisture level in your beds closely.

The last thing that I recommend for bed maintenance in the spring, is to cut a fresh new edge on the perimeter of the bed and make a pre-emergent herbicide application to the interior of the bed. Pre-emergent is most often utilized by professional turf managers to control undesirable weeds in sports fields, golf courses, and home lawns, but it will also work wonders in a bed. Nobody likes spending hours on their hands and knees weeding beds all summer long. A well timed pre-emergent application in the spring can prevent this and keep your beds looking clean and weed free all season.

Lawns

We approach lawns in a similar manner to beds. Rake up or blow the debris from the winter away, exposing the underlying grass. Give the lawn a mow to clean it up. Spring is also a great time to aerify cool season grasses like Fescue.

In this area, Fescue can and often does struggle during the summer months if not properly maintained. A spring aerification can pay dividends later in the season when the temps go up and things get stressful.

Keeping a healthy lawn means keeping the weeds out. Make your pre-emergent herbicide applications before mid-March, although I prefer to use indicator plants, like the Forsythia. If you can make the application before the Forsythia bloom in your area, then you should be fine. It is also a good time to start feeding your lawn. A balanced fertilizer program is essential for healthy turf.

Spring clean ups can work wonders for a lawn or landscape, and they don’t have to be intimidating for the homeowner. Make the effort this spring to clean up your outdoor spaces before the growing season really starts and you’ll reap the rewards the rest of the year.

Understanding Mulch

Many folks take mulching for granted. They are not sure why they need to mulch, how much or when to apply it, or why type to use. However, proper mulching is one of the most beneficial things that a homeowner can do for their landscape.

Mulches are defined as materials placed over the soil surface to maintain moisture and improve soil conditions. They are intended to help reduce moisture loss from the soil, minimize weed competition, and improve soil structure (the aggregation of soil particles).

When properly applied, mulch can really complete a landscape. However, it must be selected and applied properly in order for the homeowner to receive the full benefits. If applied too deep or the wrong material is used, it can cause significant harm to trees and other landscape plants.

Benefits of Mulch
Proper mulching has many benefits:
– Helps maintain soil moisture
o Reduces evaporation and need for supplemental irrigation/watering
– 2-4” layer reduces the germination and growth of weeds
– Improves temperature regulation
o Keeps soil temperatures cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter
– Can improve soil aeration, structure (aggregation of soil particles), and drainage over time
– Can improve soil fertility
– Mulch around trees can help facilitate maintenance and reduces the likelihood of injury or damage from lawn equipment and tools
– Gives planting beds a “finished”/ polished look

Mulch mimics the natural environment. Forests create their own mulch via leaf litter and decomposing organics on the soil surface. This is critical to the overall health of the ecosystem as it improves nutrient uptake and root growth of forest plants. Mother nature, when left to her own devices, usually gets it just right.

Urban area on the other hand, often have a more hostile growing environment. Generally speaking, land development and construction in urban areas leads to poorer soil quality, less organic material in the soil profile, and increased soil temperature and moisture fluctuations. These combine to create an environment that is hostile to the establishment and health of landscape plants. Applying a 2-4” layer of the proper organic mulch in these areas can create a more natural environment for trees, shrubs, and plants.

When considering trees, it is important to remember that tree roots are not a mirror image of the top of the tree. Roots can in fact extend out a great distance from the trunk. General tree maintenance guidelines reference the “drip line” (the outermost extension of the tree canopy), however roots can extend much further than the “drip line”.

Most nutrient absorbing roots grow in shallower soil though. These shallow, fine roots are essential for the absorption of water, nutrients, and oxygen for all plants. A think layer of mulch inside the “drip line” can improve soil structure, moisture, oxygen, and temperature in this crucial layer of the soil profile.

Mulch Types
Mulches are available commercially in many forms. The two major types of available mulches are organic and inorganic.

Inorganic mulches are generally comprised of material like:
 lava rocks
 stones
 crushed rubber
 certain geotextile material
 various other materials

These materials do not decompose and do not need to be replenished over time. They also do not provide any nutritional, structural, or organic value to the soil profile.

Organics mulches are composed of material like:
 wood chips
 pine needles
 hardwood and softwood barks
 cocoa hulls
 leaves
 other organic materials

These materials decompose in the landscape at different rates depending on the material and climate. The decomposition process improves soil quality and fertility, however they must be replenished over time.

How Much Mulch to Apply
The amount of mulch applied is just as important, if not more than the type being applied. Too much mulch can be harmful. The accepted depth for most mulch application is between 2-4”, however many landscapes fall victim to over-mulching, with large mounds around the bases of trees being quite common.

Although organic mulches must be replaced over time as the parent material decays, the rate of decomposition varies depending on material and local climate. Some mulches, like Cypress, can take years to decompose.
Many homeowners will top-dress with new mulch annually (to refresh the color). This can create a buildup to depths that become unhealthy for most plants. If top-dressing old mulch, remove the ole material every so often, keeping application rates in line with decomposition rates to avoid creating a anaerobic growing environment.

Improper mulching can lead to a host of problems:
– Excess root zone moisture
o Added stress for the plant and causes root rot
– Piling against tree trunks or plant stems can cause stem tissue stress and lead to insect and disease issues
– Certain mulches can affect soil pH (proper pH is essential for any life form to grow and develop)
o Continued use over extended periods can lead to micronutrient deficiencies in the soil or nutrient toxicities (yes, there can be toxic effects from too many nutrients in the soil)
– Mulch piled high against tree trunks may encourage rodent infestations
– Thick application of fine mulches may prevent the penetration of air and water (anaerobic and hydrophobic conditions)
o This is the opposite of why we mulch in the first place
– Anaerobic soil may give off foul odors (rotten egg smells)
– Build up of alcohols and organic acids may be toxic to young plants

 

 

Proper mulch selection and application method are very important to the overall health and sustainability of landscape plants.

Guidelines for proper mulching:
– Inspect plants and soil in the area to be mulched
o Adequate drainage?
o What type of mulch is best? (when in doubt, ask a professional)
– Check depth of any mulch already present
o Do not add if there is enough in place
o Rake old mulch to refresh the appearance and break up any matted layers
– Pull back from stems of plants and trunks of trees so that the crowns are exposed
– Organics are usually preferred over inorganics b/c of their beneficial soil contributions
o Organics should be well aerated and preferably composted
 Avoid foul smelling mulch
– Composted wood chips make a great mulch
o Especially when old leaves and bark is included
o Fresh wood chips may be used around established trees and shrubs
o Avoid non-composted chips that have been piled deep without exposure to oxygen
– For well drained sites use a 2-4” layer of mulch
o If there are drainage problems, a thinner layer should be used
o Avoid placing against tree trunks
o Do apply out to the drip line of the tree and beyond if possible

Keep in mind when selecting mulch for your landscape that there are many factors that must be considered in order to get the full benefits of mulch applications. For more information about mulch varieties, benefits, and application timings, contact a landscape professional.

A Look At The Landscape: September

You may think September should bring a cool down but here in North Carolina it can still feel like the middle of summer. Even though it may not feel like it yet, the weather is changing for the better including lower humidity (which many plants become stressed over) and lower night time temperatures (which grasses and roots love because they can recover after a hot day). So you still may not feel like it’s time to look at doing anything outside, but it’s the perfect moment to start. And if anything, don’t wait until the middle of October when frost and freezes become a possibility.

Looking at Your Landscape

Right now you probably see some of your grass coming back after the serious stress it went under this summer. It might have been dry, skinny, not growing and possibly brown, but now it’s probably growing, is less brown, and the blades are thicker. It will keep recovering. Be patient but look below for other things you can do for the promise of a great start to a lawn next year and a healthy lawn through the winter.

Your plants are probably in the same situation. The best thing you can do is clean them up – no pruning but definitely remove fallen leaves from around the plants, remove dead or diseased limbs and leaves. Spray with any insecticidal soap if needed.

Right now the Crepe Myrtles, Rose of Sharons, Knock Out Roses, Sedum and other perennial plants are in bloom right now. And the south’s favorite border plant, Liriope (otherwise lovingly known as Monkey Grass) is blooming too.

 

Plants and Trees

Right now we’re seeing many of the summer blooming shrubs begin their decline as their flower heads deaden.

Hydrangeas are most likely looking this way and you may be seeing signs of fungus on their leaves – causing them to turn brown. Too much water and watering top down or rainfall can cause this. Remove leaves that are mostly brown and make sure you throw them away along with any other leaves that fell on the ground. Take care of the rest of the leaves by squirting them with a fungicide. Definitely do not prune a hydrangea right now – wait until late winter or early spring as the buds start to form.

If your plants have holes in the leaves, you have little bugs eating away and enjoying the feast on your plant. Use good old Sevin Dust or if you’d rather go organic, Spinosad, Neem oil, or for some a little spritz of water with dish detergent will do the trick.

Deadhead and pinch back flowers that need it unless you want them to self-sow now.  This encourages new and bushier growth. Examples of plants that love it: Knockout Roses, Butterfly Bushes (Buddleia), Mums, Marigolds, and Coneflower. But! If you want them to self sow do not deadhead or pinch them back. Let them go to drop their seed.

Keep weeding and watering! If you are getting less than an inch a week, then make sure plants that are not drought tolerant are getting water. Try watering them deeply in the early morning every 3 days instead of every day as well. Look out for wilting leaves on drought tolerant plants – this is a clue they need some water. Be careful of plants susceptible to root rot and not overwater them. Weeds will steal the precious water from your plants, so get rid of those when you can by spraying or pulling – or both.

Do not fertilize any plants or trees from here on out.

Also, right now is a great time to transplant and add shrubs or plants to your landscape where you might need to introduce some fall bloomers. September is the best time to snatch up the best looking plants!

Bulbs

Now is the time to start considering your bulbs. You can move irises, peonies, and daylilies while they are still showing. Just make sure you plant the rhizomes of the irises and the eyes of the peonies no deeper than an inch or so. New bulbs can start to be bought and stuck in the ground for the spring towards the end of the month and into the first part of October.

We also offer a division and moving of plants service for you as well as adding in new plants and bulbs! Click Here to contact us.

Pruning

Absolutely do not cut back your azaleas, forsythia, and other spring flowering shrubs. Also do not prune at this point any other shrubs, new growth could result and with a hard freeze or frost in October that new growth would cause damage to the plant.

By all means though, go ahead and prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased limbs or shoots even on those shrubs. Make sure you throw them away and don’t leave them lying beneath the shrub to invite disease to the plant. I carry around one of those big blue Ikea bags for weeds and pruning. It is so convenient!

Some of you have had some good storms and it causes damage in your trees and shrubs. Cut off those damaged limbs and pull them out of the shrubs too if any fell into them. Clean up is very important to a healthy lawn and shrubs.

Suckers may be growing on the bottom part of your Holly trees, Crepe Myrtles and other similar trees that naturally want to be more shrub-like. Go ahead and take those off.

If your Hostas (aka Plaintain Lilies) have holes in their leaves with burnt edges, they’re in the sun too much or in the heat of the afternoon sun. Towards the middle of this month you can replant them to a shadier spot. And if you have to have Hostas in that spot find a Hosta that can take the sun better like Guacamole, Sun and Substance, and Squash Casserole. Also Hostas should be divided if very big to keep them healthy. Plus this just gives you more plants for your yard!

Other plants also need division to maintain health and you can create new plants from those. This is a great time of year to do it. Some of those include ornamental grasses, Peonies, Irises, Hydrangeas etc.

Keep planting annuals, especially the cooler season annuals like Pansies, and you can actually start planting shrubs now!

Fall is the best time to plant shrubs because it gives them a chance to establish their roots so they have a jump on growing outwards in the spring and producing their best show, rather than waiting in the spring for their roots to establish then put on a show.

Lawn

Right now is the perfect time to lay sod.

Now is the time to start working on your lawn for next season. Labor Day marks the traditional end to summer and with that, the time to start thinking about over-seeding, pre-emergent, and fertilizers for cool season turf. Additional information about over-seeding can be found here.

Warm season turf (Bermuda or Zoysia), is on the backside of the growing season. These turf types will benefit most from minimal Nitrogen (N) fertilization and moderate Potassium (K) fertilization. Pre-emergent applications are also recommended for warm season turf at this time.

As we move into fall, keep in mind that you are laying the foundation for next season’s success with everything you do in your yard. A little expense now will pay big dividends in the spring and summer.

Check out our other posts for more info on irrigation or other turf care topics.

 

6 Benefits of Professional Lawn Maintenance

Like most homeowners, you find you have little time for lawn care. Regular lawn care and maintenance takes time and effort, requiring a year-round commitment to keep a well-maintained lawn.

Hiring a landscape company that handles professional lawn maintenance in your areas is the perfect solution for a beautiful lawn. Do-it-yourself lawn care and regular maintenance is an overwhelming task for most homeowners.

Whether the lawn is large or small, keeping the grass, plants, trees and shrubs healthy an dgreen takes knowledge and experience in plant care and maintenance practices.

Professional lawn care offers numerous benefits that are difficult to match:

  1. Regular Services
    • With the hectic schedules that many homeowners have day in and day out, finding the time to take care of even basic lawn maintenance taskss is a challenge. Hiring a professional to take care of this for you frees up your time and gives you peace of mind in knowing that your lawns needs are met consistantly.
  2. A Healthier Lawn
    • Keeping your lawn healthy year-round is more than just regular mowing and trimming an drequires attention to details that may signal impending problems. A healthy, functional lawn requires knowledge and skill about mowing techniques, soil types, plant growth pattersn, climate and light conditions, feeding and pruing schedules, and proper lawn care product selection for your existing lawn and landscape conditions.
  3. Curb Appeal
    • Your lawn and landscape have a significant impact on your home’s appearance and curb appeal. A well-maintained lawn adds beauty and character to your home, creates an inviting entrance, increases property values, and gives the homeowner a sense of pride in their property.
  4. Professional Knowledge
    • Lawn care professionals have a diverse knowlege of the product and procedures that are essential to keep your lawn healthy and beautiful. Professional lawn managers understand the advantages and disavantages of different lawn care products and procedures. Professionals bring years of education and experience bear for the homeowner, with most now carrying  college degrees in turf maintenance, horticulture, or agronomy. This education and experience is key to the proper timing, selection, and application of fertilizers, perticides, herbicides, new plantings, and seeding.
  5. Skilled and Experienced Crews
    • Crews show up with the proper tools and equipment to get hte job done right. Hiring a professional to maintain your lawn can save you thousands in tool and equipment costs, while increasing the amount of free time that is available to you. If you consider the experience level of the team and the cost of the tools and equipment, often a professional lawn care service delivers a better product for less expense.
  6. Weed Control
    • Without proper weed control by a professional, aggressive weeds can infest your lawn. Proper selection and application of pre-emergent products is the first step in a weed free lawn. A healthy, properly maintained lawn can also aid in the elimination of unsightly weeds. Once weeds have established, it is much more expensive to remove them than it would have been to prevent them.

A Look at the Landscape: August

This is the start of what I hope will be informational and/or helpful to you as you look out at your landscape. It is all things we consider as landscapers and homeowners in the month of August. These are things I’ve always tried to do, even before I was in the business and it’s something every homeowner can do to help their landscape through the tough part of the summer. Some of these we may take care of for you, depending on the level of your maintenance, or we may not but they are still worth taking a look at.

Y’all its August – the month my girls start back to school (in just 2 weeks!) and we are almost through this sweltering, drought-ridden, long as a pole bean summer. Luckily a week ago we had a break in the drought and in the heat and this coming week looks to be the same.

Looking at Your Landscape

Right now if you are looking out at your landscape, you probably want to go run back inside and not emerge again until the heat is over and you can start the repairs to your yard. Yes, I think everyone, including those Bermuda grass yards are feeling the effects of the summer. So, in case you didn’t take a deep look, here’s what it probably looks like and further down, what you can do this month to help things along.

Plants and Trees

Your flowering shrubs and trees most likely have yellowing leaves and they’re dropping making your heart drop with them wondering if they are going to make it. Most of them will – they are only dropping their older leaves because of the drought conditions. They will bounce back, especially if they are a drought tolerant plant like Azaleas. Some more finicky plants like Gardenias will also be showing signs of stress but they will need a little extra care – get them some water and make sure you fertilize them with the correct food.

yellowing leaves on an Azalea plant
The yellowing leaves on one of my Azaleas.

If your plants have holes in the leaves, you have little bugs eating away and enjoying the feast on your plant. Use good old Sevin Dust or if you’d rather go organic, Spinosad, Neem oil, or for some a little spritz of water with dish detergent.

Deadhead and pinch back flowers that need it. This encourages new and bushier growth. Examples of plants that love it: Knockout Roses, Butterfly Bushes (Buddleia), Mums, Marigolds, and Coneflower.

Keep weeding and watering! If you are getting less than an inch a week, then make sure plants that are not drought tolerant are getting water. Try watering them deeply in the early morning every 2 -3 days instead of every day as well. Look out for wilting leaves on drought tolerant plants – this is a clue they need some water. Be careful of plants susceptible to root rot and not overwater them. Weeds will steal the precious water from your plants, so get rid of those when you can by spraying or pulling – or both.

Fertilize your landscape shrubs with the appropriate fertilizer. This will be their last feeding until the Spring – otherwise you risk new growth later that won’t survive a good frost. And if you haven’t hit your roses yet with some food, then please do! Also container plants may be looking for a liquid feed at this time so don’t forget them – they’ll last longer through the season for you.

Pruning

Absolutely do not cut back your azaleas, forsythia, and other spring flowering shrubs.

By all means though, go ahead and prune off any dead, damaged, or diseased limbs or shoots even on those spring flowering shrubs. Make sure you throw them away and don’t leave them lying beneath the shrub to invite disease to the plant. I carry around one of those big blue Ikea bags for weeds and pruning. It is so convenient!

Some of you have had some good storms and it causes damage in your trees and shrubs. Cut off those damaged limbs and pull them out of the shrubs too if any fell into them. Clean up is very important to a healthy lawn and shrubs.

Suckers growing at the bottom of a holly tree.

Suckers may be growing on the bottom part of your Holly trees, Crepe Myrtles and other similar trees that naturally want to be more shrub-like. Go ahead and take those off.

Boxwoods and other hedges like Yew and Privet will still benefit from a good pruning as well but this month is the month to do it otherwise afterward you’ll risk new growth during a frost period.

You can cut off the yellowed leaves of irises right now but leave the still green shoots. Or if you’d rather just leave it all until fall.

If your Hostas have holes in their leaves with burnt edges, they’re in the sun too much or in the heat of the afternoon sun. In the fall you can replant them to a shadier spot. And if you have to have Hostas in that spot find a Hosta that can take the sun better like Guacamole, Sun and Substance, and Squash Casserole.

If you are into propagation and sharing with your friends and neighbors, go ahead and take semi-hardwood cuttings from shrubs like Rose of Sharon or Forsythia. Stick them in a pot and get their roots going so they’re strong for the winter (like anyone can think about the winter with this heat).

Keep planting annuals and avoid putting perennial shrubs in the ground. Some perennial plants like Coneflower or Dragon’s Breath can still take it but it’s best to leave them to plant when it’s not so hot.

Lawn

Your grass, especially if its Fescue probably has a spectrum of looks to it. But mostly it looks sickly, dead or overgrown with weeds. If you are one of our customers in the first year, bear with us – fall is the best time to rebound and next year it won’t be like this.

Much of what can be done for Fescue is done in the fall as spring is a late jump for Fescue. If you want more info we wrote two great articles on Fescue and our Southern Summers and How to irrigate for Fescue.

Patience is critical this time of year for Fescue, resist the urge to fertilize or undertake any seeding/sodding. The best time to begin those practices is just after Labor Day.

Warm season turf (Bermuda or Zoysia), the drought may be taking a toll on your turf, but don’t fret, it will bounce back quickly once adequate water is applied (either naturally or via irrigation). If you have irrigation, use it 2x’s per week for 30 min each early in the morning (4-7 am).

Moving forward, begin thinking about Fall pre-emergent applications. This is the most important thing that you can do to ensure that your next season is a great one.

Check out our other posts for more info on irrigation or other turf care topics.

Our Business

We are expanding and added on another employee this month. Wesley is joining us as a fully experienced and well-qualified maintenance foreman. He has easily worked in and showed he is skilled and knowledgeable. We are still adding on maintenance accounts so he is a welcome addition to our team!

Want to Plant Something In This Heat? Here’s What To Do.

It’s almost the middle of what is quickly becoming a sweltering, never-ending summer. As you look at your landscape everyday, you feel something is missing and you have an idea of what it is. Color.
 
After the rush of color during the spring, June can often seem very green. It’s beautiful, but its also like a pause for a couple of weeks while we wait for the summer bloomers to take over.
 
That is if you have your landscape figured out. But maybe you never got around to planting any summer blooms and you have no color to look forward to. Or perhaps your landscape sits in the shade and it seems like everything that blooms needs full sun.
 
Believe me, I’m feeling it all right now. I’m always moving plants, propagating, dividing and adding and right now that’s all I want to do.
 
When we took over our 100 year old house all we had in the front was green. Nothing that flowered. Four years later, I am on the edge of my seat as my summer bloomers make themselves known. It happens so slowly because shade dominates my yard, except in the late afternoon heat (not exactly friendly to most shade plants).

Even I want to fill my landscape with color right now. But it’s not the time to shop for perennials and put them in the ground as you see holes in your landscape. The heat (and lately lack of rain) would make an otherwise stressful situation even more stressful, and not just on the plants. It’s almost too hot to even be outside. So how do we get color this time of year, especially as it becomes less ideal to put perennial plants in the ground?
 

Plant Annuals

 
Yes, the most obvious but it’s also the cheapest option. You can tell it’s that time because garden centers are full of them. You might notice landscapers planting masses of annuals at neighborhood and shopping center entrances. Even though many of these heat loving plants can withstand a drop in the ground right now, it’s still super important you water them and water them deeply in the morning. Also plan on planting them when the sun is not touching the planting area – this will give them a moment to settle. And water immediately after planting.
 
Some of my favorite annuals for color that you can pick up at any garden center are:
 
Shaded Yards – Begonias, New Guinea Impatiens, Fuschia, Lobelia, Coleus, and Caladium.
 
Sunny Yards – Dahlias, Daisies, Petunias, Zinnias, Geraniums, Calibrachoa, Marigolds, Impatiens, Mandevillas and Bougainvilleas.
 

Try Containers

 
Plant perennials in containers of varying heights for color. Choose colorful containers to add a bigger boost of color too! Place the containers throughout your landscape to fill the voids where you want color.
 
You can also add perennials to containers and when fall ushers in some relief from this heat, transplant those to a more permanent place in your landscape. Be sure though to keep containers well watered no matter what you put in them as they do dry out faster.