Tag: landscaping

Spring Clean-Up: A Strong Start to the Season

Finally, there are signs of Spring.

January is over and we are starting to notice little changes in the environment that are early indicators of Spring. For those of us in the Landscape and Lawn Maintenance industry, it is a welcome arrival. I am sure that many of you are ready for warmer weather, longer days, and sunnier skies too.

The arrival of warmer weather and longer days signals the start of the spring planting season. Before you can make plans for new plantings or other changes to your landscape, you need to take the time to thoroughly clean up your landscape or lawn. We call this a Spring Cleanup. We have all heard the terms Spring Cleaning before, though maybe you never associated it with your outdoor spaces.

Spring cleanups are, in my opinion, the most important cultural practice that we do all year for our landscapes and lawns. It helps us to establish a healthy, clean growing environment, where our plants and turf can thrive in the coming season. Spring cleanups do not have to be arduous tasks that take a long time to complete, however there are a few specific things that you will want to check off the list.

Perennials and Ornamentals

Spring is a good time to cut back certain species to encourage a bigger and better regeneration later in the season. Ornamental grasses can be cut back to about 1/5th of their max height.

It is also a good time to divide up fall blooming perennials and grasses. By doing this in the spring, you are giving the divided plants a season grow and will have new plants in the fall.

Beds

Beds are probably the most intimidating aspect of the Spring Cleanup. Over the winter they get cluttered with fallen leaves, twigs, sticks, and other debris. This all needs to be removed. By removing the debris, the surface of the bed becomes open to better water absorption and gas exchange, improving the growing medium for the bedded plants.

Folks tend to want to spread fresh mulch in the spring, to help dress everything up, after all, fresh mulch is one way to spruce things up quickly and affordably, but I would hold off. One of the primary functions of mulch is moisture retention, which can aid in the reduction of irrigation water to beds. In the spring though, there is plenty of natural moisture, we don’t necessarily need to retain any at this point. And we all know, or at least we should, that too much moisture for plant roots can create a host of disease issues. So, hold off on the new mulch for now.
If you just cannot wait on the mulch, then tread lightly. Go thinner on the application and monitor the moisture level in your beds closely.

The last thing that I recommend for bed maintenance in the spring, is to cut a fresh new edge on the perimeter of the bed and make a pre-emergent herbicide application to the interior of the bed. Pre-emergent is most often utilized by professional turf managers to control undesirable weeds in sports fields, golf courses, and home lawns, but it will also work wonders in a bed. Nobody likes spending hours on their hands and knees weeding beds all summer long. A well timed pre-emergent application in the spring can prevent this and keep your beds looking clean and weed free all season.

Lawns

We approach lawns in a similar manner to beds. Rake up or blow the debris from the winter away, exposing the underlying grass. Give the lawn a mow to clean it up. Spring is also a great time to aerify cool season grasses like Fescue.

In this area, Fescue can and often does struggle during the summer months if not properly maintained. A spring aerification can pay dividends later in the season when the temps go up and things get stressful.

Keeping a healthy lawn means keeping the weeds out. Make your pre-emergent herbicide applications before mid-March, although I prefer to use indicator plants, like the Forsythia. If you can make the application before the Forsythia bloom in your area, then you should be fine. It is also a good time to start feeding your lawn. A balanced fertilizer program is essential for healthy turf.

Spring clean ups can work wonders for a lawn or landscape, and they don’t have to be intimidating for the homeowner. Make the effort this spring to clean up your outdoor spaces before the growing season really starts and you’ll reap the rewards the rest of the year.

Understanding Mulch

Many folks take mulching for granted. They are not sure why they need to mulch, how much or when to apply it, or why type to use. However, proper mulching is one of the most beneficial things that a homeowner can do for their landscape.

Mulches are defined as materials placed over the soil surface to maintain moisture and improve soil conditions. They are intended to help reduce moisture loss from the soil, minimize weed competition, and improve soil structure (the aggregation of soil particles).

When properly applied, mulch can really complete a landscape. However, it must be selected and applied properly in order for the homeowner to receive the full benefits. If applied too deep or the wrong material is used, it can cause significant harm to trees and other landscape plants.

Benefits of Mulch
Proper mulching has many benefits:
– Helps maintain soil moisture
o Reduces evaporation and need for supplemental irrigation/watering
– 2-4” layer reduces the germination and growth of weeds
– Improves temperature regulation
o Keeps soil temperatures cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter
– Can improve soil aeration, structure (aggregation of soil particles), and drainage over time
– Can improve soil fertility
– Mulch around trees can help facilitate maintenance and reduces the likelihood of injury or damage from lawn equipment and tools
– Gives planting beds a “finished”/ polished look

Mulch mimics the natural environment. Forests create their own mulch via leaf litter and decomposing organics on the soil surface. This is critical to the overall health of the ecosystem as it improves nutrient uptake and root growth of forest plants. Mother nature, when left to her own devices, usually gets it just right.

Urban area on the other hand, often have a more hostile growing environment. Generally speaking, land development and construction in urban areas leads to poorer soil quality, less organic material in the soil profile, and increased soil temperature and moisture fluctuations. These combine to create an environment that is hostile to the establishment and health of landscape plants. Applying a 2-4” layer of the proper organic mulch in these areas can create a more natural environment for trees, shrubs, and plants.

When considering trees, it is important to remember that tree roots are not a mirror image of the top of the tree. Roots can in fact extend out a great distance from the trunk. General tree maintenance guidelines reference the “drip line” (the outermost extension of the tree canopy), however roots can extend much further than the “drip line”.

Most nutrient absorbing roots grow in shallower soil though. These shallow, fine roots are essential for the absorption of water, nutrients, and oxygen for all plants. A think layer of mulch inside the “drip line” can improve soil structure, moisture, oxygen, and temperature in this crucial layer of the soil profile.

Mulch Types
Mulches are available commercially in many forms. The two major types of available mulches are organic and inorganic.

Inorganic mulches are generally comprised of material like:
 lava rocks
 stones
 crushed rubber
 certain geotextile material
 various other materials

These materials do not decompose and do not need to be replenished over time. They also do not provide any nutritional, structural, or organic value to the soil profile.

Organics mulches are composed of material like:
 wood chips
 pine needles
 hardwood and softwood barks
 cocoa hulls
 leaves
 other organic materials

These materials decompose in the landscape at different rates depending on the material and climate. The decomposition process improves soil quality and fertility, however they must be replenished over time.

How Much Mulch to Apply
The amount of mulch applied is just as important, if not more than the type being applied. Too much mulch can be harmful. The accepted depth for most mulch application is between 2-4”, however many landscapes fall victim to over-mulching, with large mounds around the bases of trees being quite common.

Although organic mulches must be replaced over time as the parent material decays, the rate of decomposition varies depending on material and local climate. Some mulches, like Cypress, can take years to decompose.
Many homeowners will top-dress with new mulch annually (to refresh the color). This can create a buildup to depths that become unhealthy for most plants. If top-dressing old mulch, remove the ole material every so often, keeping application rates in line with decomposition rates to avoid creating a anaerobic growing environment.

Improper mulching can lead to a host of problems:
– Excess root zone moisture
o Added stress for the plant and causes root rot
– Piling against tree trunks or plant stems can cause stem tissue stress and lead to insect and disease issues
– Certain mulches can affect soil pH (proper pH is essential for any life form to grow and develop)
o Continued use over extended periods can lead to micronutrient deficiencies in the soil or nutrient toxicities (yes, there can be toxic effects from too many nutrients in the soil)
– Mulch piled high against tree trunks may encourage rodent infestations
– Thick application of fine mulches may prevent the penetration of air and water (anaerobic and hydrophobic conditions)
o This is the opposite of why we mulch in the first place
– Anaerobic soil may give off foul odors (rotten egg smells)
– Build up of alcohols and organic acids may be toxic to young plants

 

 

Proper mulch selection and application method are very important to the overall health and sustainability of landscape plants.

Guidelines for proper mulching:
– Inspect plants and soil in the area to be mulched
o Adequate drainage?
o What type of mulch is best? (when in doubt, ask a professional)
– Check depth of any mulch already present
o Do not add if there is enough in place
o Rake old mulch to refresh the appearance and break up any matted layers
– Pull back from stems of plants and trunks of trees so that the crowns are exposed
– Organics are usually preferred over inorganics b/c of their beneficial soil contributions
o Organics should be well aerated and preferably composted
 Avoid foul smelling mulch
– Composted wood chips make a great mulch
o Especially when old leaves and bark is included
o Fresh wood chips may be used around established trees and shrubs
o Avoid non-composted chips that have been piled deep without exposure to oxygen
– For well drained sites use a 2-4” layer of mulch
o If there are drainage problems, a thinner layer should be used
o Avoid placing against tree trunks
o Do apply out to the drip line of the tree and beyond if possible

Keep in mind when selecting mulch for your landscape that there are many factors that must be considered in order to get the full benefits of mulch applications. For more information about mulch varieties, benefits, and application timings, contact a landscape professional.

Traditional Southern Shrub Installation

This was a fun little project for a maintenance client of ours. They had non-flowering shrubs that were struggling and wanted to replace them not only because they were unsightly but because they wanted to add a little color to the yard. I decided to keep all the shrubs evergreen, except one and to go with a more traditional southern shrub aesthetic.

Here’s the before:

To start with the more traditional look, I decided to go with Encore Azaleas that don’t grow more than about 3 feet tall in front, giving the client flowers from Spring until Fall and since they are evergreen, they won’t have drab looking shrubs in the winter. The azaleas are also pretty hardy, drought tolerant and handle more sun than a traditional Azalea. They had a smaller budget to work with and these are perfect all around.

Lining the steps up, and in front of the existing Pencil Boxwoods, I added two Encore Azaleas that grow to about 4.5 feet tall to give the sidewalk leading up a little more drama. I also decided on white to off-set the pink colors of the smaller azaleas.

Behind the Azaleas I decided on a Gardenia that grows to about 5′ tall to give the client height and to border the porch with a little privacy. The flowers are also fragrant, making a moment on the porch that much sweeter. As well, the Gardenias are also evergreen, but their leaf color is a darker green than that of the Azaleas making them a really nice backdrop.

On the left side of the house, I decided on a smaller camellia that grows to about 8 ft tall and 6 ft wide with pink blooms in the winter. The dark glossy leaves of the Camellia will also create a pretty backdrop.

Finally, on the other end of the front of the house, I added a Hydrangea that won’t be noticed in the winter, but will be dramatic through the summer.

Here is the after:

 

Fescue and Southern Summers

There are two types of grasses, warm-season (Bermudas, Zoysias, St. Augustine) and cool-season (fescues, ryes, bentgrasses, bluegrasses). Many factors distinguish the various cultivars, both in the general sense and more specifically between species. While we will not get deep into the weeds (pun intended) while discussing grasses this morning, I think that a little background information might be valuable as the discussion turns more from grass type to lawn maintenance, to turf performance.

If you are reading this, then you most likely have a variety of fescue grass in your lawn. Fescue is a general name given to a species that has several cultivars. Differentiating between specific fescue cultivars and their genetic pairing with other grass types is not of critical importance for this discussion, so moving forward any reference to fescue should be taken in the general sense.

Fescue is a cool-season grass that is quite popular in the transition zone (this is the climatic zone that you live in). It establishes easily from seed in the cooler fall months, stays green year-round (usually – more on this later), and can tolerate a variety of growing conditions. Fescue is also a bunch-type grass. These are grasses that grow in bunches and do not have Rhizomes that spread laterally (think Bermuda grass). Being a bunch-type means that any injury to the turf must be reseeded to fully recover.

As mentioned above, Fescue can tolerate a variety of growing conditions. Fescue grasses generally preform best when temperatures are between 65-80 degrees for leaf growth and 68-86 degrees for seed germination. New root growth for most cool-season grasses occurs rapidly when soil temperatures are between 50-65 degrees at the 1-inch depth and will continue into the upper 80’s, albeit at a reduced rate. However, once temperatures in the soil reach 90 degrees or greater, root growth is greatly reduced, and care must be taken to protect the root system from damage.

Though Fescue can and does tolerate a wide variety of temperatures at which it can perform, it is susceptible to heat and drought stress. Fescue can tolerate the extreme summer heat that we routinely see here in the Carolinas, but it needs a break at night from those high temperatures to recover from the day’s stress and generate some new growth. Generally, Fescue requires cooler nights (< 70 degrees) to recover from high heat the previous day, if the night stays warm (> 70 degrees), then the plant cannot produce the energy that it needs to repair itself and grow the next day. Long stretches of high nighttime temperatures can be brutal on Fescue (many in the Carolinas are seeing the effects now from a brutal June weather pattern). Fescue can look devastated in the summer, and while high daytime heat is the first target of blame among many (and does share some responsibility in decline), high nighttime temperatures are more destructive, especially when coupled with high humidity.

With that information in mind, let’s examine the weather over the past month as it relates to historical averages for our area. June 2018 was on average, 5 degrees warmer than normal. Think about that for a minute….5 degrees! That is a noticeable variation and should not be taken lightly. During the month of June, we saw:

• Average High/Low: 87/65 degrees
• Actual High/Low: 91/70 degrees
• # days > average high: 26
• # days > average low: 28
• # days > 86 degrees: 27
• # days > 70 degrees (daily low): 15
• # days > 90 degrees: 19
• # days > 92 degrees: 13
• Total precipitation: 1.47″ (-3.25″)
• Average precipitation: 4.72″

As the numbers above indicate, June has been a brutal month with respect to traditional averages for the area. The result is that some folks are seeing decline in their Fescue sooner in the season than is typical. Usually we see this sort of weather begin to affect Fescue negatively in late July, this year it came a month early.
The big question we always get is what can I do to improve my lawn or what are you going to do to make it better? There is no easy answer for these queries. While there is a lot that can be done to mitigate the effects of extreme growing conditions (the last two weeks of June come to mind), there is little that we can do to counteract mother nature. Reversing course once damage appears can be quite challenging during a Carolina summer. All hope is not lost though.

Fescue may turn brown/tan, but can often survive periods of drought by going into a state of semi-dormancy, and will struggle in hot/dry summers (have you been outside). During periods of extended hot/dry conditions, fescue will require significant water, in excess of 1″ per week. Many homeowners irrigate their lawns in some form or fashion, however unless you have a professionally installed irrigation system that is programmable and have had it calibrated to meet your watering requirements, there is not a practical way to get that much water on the lawn in a given week without some assistance from mother nature.

When we do irrigate our lawns, it should be to avoid wilting, but only to supplement natural rainfall, not to replace it (unless it just is not rainy, like the last month was). We should also be mindful of our irrigation timings. Early morning is the best time to irrigate our lawns (before sunrise is ideal 3-5 am). On established lawns, deep infrequent irrigation is key to strong deep roots. Deep and infrequent means water longer cycles with more days between waterings, wetting the soil to a depth of around 3″. On lawns that are not quite established (newly sodded or seeded), we want to water as needed. Since the root systems are not as strong in a newer lawn, we want to water more frequently to nurse the grass through the days until we get a break in the weather.

If you have questions about your irrigation practices, let us know and we can help you develop a plan.

Fertilizer this time of year is NOT THE ANSWER. When temperatures are like they have been lately, turfgrass root systems are limited in their uptake ability and there is no need to stimulate a stressed plant that does not want to grow under adverse climatic conditions. If fertilizer is applied to a fescue lawn now, you will accelerate its decline. Patience here will pay dividends later.

Fescue may be allowed to go dormant (a natural process that is used as a defense mechanism by the plant) if heat and drought set in, and you will be surprised at the recovery once there is relief from the stressor, even if the grass was completely tan.

The best course of action right now for those with stressed Fescue is to trust your turf professional, consult one if you haven’t, and be patient (I know that is not what you want to hear), things will improve but it will take some time and cooler weather.

The weather will break, and recovery will happen. It only takes a few cooler nights to notice a significant improvement in turf quality, so hang in there for the time being.